Hi Onagadori FF.
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. Seems like there is too much going on these days.
Regarding diet of cultural monuments, there are a few time-honoured secrets the Japanese keep beneath resplendent folds of sleeves.
The Japanese culture is the result of a peoples dependent, for a large part, on fish. Fish makes up a great deal of the modern Japanese diet and was likely even more significant a source of nutrition in ancient days. Fish is also highly perishable. Before the days of refrigeration, a goodly percentage of fish was discarded after a few hours rather than days. Due to the constant source of fresh fish, there was little impetus to utilize less palatable parts of the fish. Dead fish attract rodents and breeds filth flies. Subsequently, the fish gleaning domestic fowl proved to be invaluable companions to many kitchens across all classes and regions of Japan.
This DIGESTIBLE protein is required throughout the birds' lifetimes. Fish/sea life is the best and only route to go because it is almost completely digestible for the birds.I've observed everything from squid and dried shrimp to diced fish heads, tail fins and eel roe to mollusc guts/feet fed to Cultural Monument breeds. These animal protein feedstuffs are fed once or twice a week during most of the year and every other day during the breeding and growing periods, which coincide with the moulting season of Koeyoshi, Shamo and Japanese Bantams.
In Japan, certain feedstuffs are/were available during certain seasons and not others. For example, a large part of any summer diet would be the suika melon and the next season's diet would be supplemented with generous servings of Japanese Persimmon. This diversity of feed is critical in keeping wild Junglefowl and very important in the diet of Cultural Monument breeds. Utilizing the plant species closest to those utilized in traditional Japanese cuisine is of vital importance. A melon is a melon but an apple is not a persimmon. Fatty acids and antioxidants found in generous amounts in the persimmon are not even present in the apple. Another issue that comes to mind is digestible dietary fiber. Fish scales and fish offal; all the parts of the squid and shrimp not palatable to humans and thus discarded into the livestock pot are mainstays in the diet of these old breeds.
One frequently sees tiny crabs called akategani in the gardens and pathways of many parts of Japan. These akategani are favorite foods for the hens and young of free ranging stock. Small children sell akategani to Onagadori stewards on one island we visited. Digestible dietary fiber is converted to sugar(energy) by the birds. Green and Ceylon Junglefowl differ from Red and Grey Junglefowl in their capacity to digest/utilize tougher chitin, fish scales and the like. This is because these two wild Junglefowl species depend on hard shelled crustaceans and mollusks in their regular diet. In Japan, populations of heirloom fowl were being raised on these feedstuffs and it is likely that the capacity to utilize these foods is hard wired into their chemical makeup. Where a typical western domestic fowl would like nothing better than a crop full of nutrient deficient corn and wheat to get through the day ( capable of surviving on this fare only because of the ready access to unlimited amounts of the feed eaten at will all day); old breeds like these Japanese treasure would prefer fish offal, squid scrapings,crustacean chitin, baked barley, cooked rice and bamboo shoots/seeds to fill their crops.
Bi products of a seafood based diet include those part of the aquatic creature not palatable to humans.
When one really investigates the nutritional value of something seemingly insignificant as fish scales for wild Junglefowl, their value in maintaining these old Japanese breeds becomes more obvious. Imagine how many shrimp are eaten a day in one village. How much chitin ( hard shell covering) including fleshy heads and legs would be readily accessible for local fowl? How much fat is in the head and hard oily skin of a shrimp? These birds benefit from regular supplementation of feed with animal fat. Peanuts and tree nuts would make ideal snacks provided it is within reason. One bird doesn't naturally consume an entire crop of nuts in one fell swoop. A great deal of energy is required for the bird to pound the meat out of its shell and this is risky business in the survival of those paying attention sweepstakes. So when you give treats of nuts only give each bird one or two per visit. If you visit five times a day you might want to cut down on the number of nuts- or not. It isn't going to kill them to have all the peanuts they will eat but it isn't economical or necessary.
Irregardless of whether you treat with nuts you should make certain the birds have adequate oil in their diet. A can of sardines every few weeks is a clean and convenient way to go. I use the cheapest ones on the shelf-and prefer those with bones and skin. The sardines and all the olive oil that is smothering them are placed out on a bowl of granola or dollar store breakfast cereal. The birds inhale the sardines in no time and cereal soaks up the oils left over from the can. Leave the bowl until the cereal is gone and don't feed them anything else until they do.
It is important to recall that these old Japanese breeds have one or more of the four wild junglefowl as male ancestors.
This means that their diets should more closely resemble the Green or Ceylon Junglefowls' than the Red or Grey Junglefowls'. The Green, Ceylon and to a lesser extent the Grey Junglefowl, are ecological specialists. They have extended breeding seasons -possibly breeding all year round ( Green and Ceylon Junglefowl). The Red and again, to a lesser extent, the Grey Junglefowl are ecological generalists, they have a shorter breeding season and can forage on a wide variety of foods with varying nutritional values. Conversely, Green and Ceylon Junglefowl nutritional requirements are much more conservative. They subsist on very specific foods and shift their diets according to availability of specific items like ant/termite swarms, sea shore offal and fruiting trees.
In other words, these two species may subsist almost entirely on a fruit diet for a month at a time when certain fruiting trees are in season,only to switch over to a sea life based diet ( Green Junglefowl) after a typhoon or mollusks like snails and slugs (Ceylon Junglefowl) during the wet monsoon. The Grey Junglefowl is an interesting case because it is a specialist during the dry season and a generalist during the wet season.
Green Junglefowl; Ceylon Junglefowl and Grey Junglefowl males.
What does this information signify about the dietary requirements of long domesticated Cultural Monument Breeds?
The fact that Green Junglefowl sires contributed considerably to the ancestry Long Tail and Long Crowing breeds and Ceylon Junglefowl contributed a great deal to the ancestry of the Minohiki and Bantam breeds has its consequences. The novel demes of these two unusual Junglefowl species were only amplified during the long self-imposed isolation of Japan, when no new genetics from additional fowl were introduced. This meant that each lineage would eventually become genetically homogeneous (closely related). This prolonged; close inbreeding was only amplified during periods of rampant feudalism. This is because different houses ceased exchanging the cultural treasure breed stock with one another. Yet another integral factor that came into place during the creation and refinement of these important breeds was the unique food basket available to the Japanese people. Early Japanese poultry stewards would have learned, very soon into the experiment, that this invaluable stock thrived on fish protein/dried shrimp and were kept satiated and content on bulky grains like Barley and Millet with generous helpings of cooked rice. It is my understanding that soy was too rare a commodity in ancient times to be fed to poultry except the occasional fire blackened soy beans and their hulls. Daikon Radish shavings and greens were often fed when in season as were sesame, cooked buckwheat, kelp, and mustard greens.
In my opinion, the notion that Japanese Monument breeds can't digest grain tends to get overstated. The knowledgeable stewards on this forum know the facts about optimal nutrition of these birds. Nevertheless, the actual factual information has a way of devolving the greater the generation of discourse.
Its like a game of telephone. The end result is misunderstandings passed on from party to party as fact.
Traditional grains fed to domestic fowl in Japan were Millet, Barley, Buckwheat, Cooked Brown Rice and Sesame Seed. The majority of the bulk diet consisted of a mixture of any of the above but generally the majority of the diet would be generous amounts of Japanese (white) Millet, roasted Barley and or Buckwheat with frequent helpings of cooked rice and sesame seed, especially for females and chicks. Compared with the high carbohydrate diets of modern commercial poultry models-that being primarily corn based- the Japanese diets were substantially less giving in terms of energy. Consequently, the Japanese breeds tend be a bit less energetic than say leghorns or fayoumi- breeds whose diets have always been wheat based; Araucanian and American breeds like the Rhode Island Red have been developed almost exclusively ,since the day of their inception, nurtured primarily on corn. Corn is instant energy but tends to leave fowl hungry. Wheat is quite a bit more filling but is nevertheless, inferior to animal protein.
During mentorship under Japanese conservation aviculturists, I learned that the traditional diets of traditional old breeds like the Onagadori, Minohiki and Koeyoshi, the Shamo and Ohiki were Roasted Barley ( a bi product of traditional Japanese teas) and Millet based diets, and in that order.
Japanese Barley
Japanese Buckwheat
Japanese (white) Millet
Japanese Sesame
Bi products of Buckwheat noodles -that is ground and or cooked Buckwheat and Rice ( white or brown) topped with dried fish, fish scales and other bi products of the traditional (Japanese people's) fish based diet featured prominently.
So how do you feed your heirloom lineages of these cultural treasure stocks?
My suggestion is to go the White Millet, Barley and Cooked Rice route. This is the bulk dry feed put out daily.
Every time you and your family have shrimp, lobster, crayfish- SAVE the chitin and all the parts you don't find appetizing.
Use a sturdy pruning tool to dice the shells into peck sized pieces and mix into White Millet and a bit of granola.
Freeze this material in small yogurt containers for ready use.
I fully realize a few of you will find this distasteful, but here is where I encourage people to utilize my Farmer's Helper product line of feeds.
The main ingredient most important for your management will prove to be our "hunter formula" kibble. This was formulated specifically for birds like sandpipers, plovers, green junglefowl, peacock pheasants and peafowl. It is made of most of the ingredients you have seen in your average feed but our feed is extruded- baked like dry pet food. This makes it more digestible, more palatable and with no waste. It is made with generous percentages of both catfish meal and crustacean meal as well as the best vitamin and mineral supplements available to the zoo community for the rarest and most delicate of birds.
One my favorite products is the Optimal Foragecake. This is chock full of dried cranberries, nut pieces and "Hunter Kibble" plus dried vegetables and spices like turmeric and cinnamon. I cut brownie sized pieces off the foragecake and- soak them in warm water on one side for a half hour or so. Then I put them out for the birds to eat. This supplement can be used together with whatever you are feeding and this will dramatically improve upon your maintenance diet. After eating on the Foragecake for a few days droppings will be smaller, firmer and drier. The plumage and bare skin and leg scales will grow in more vivid in pigmentation and the readily digestible proteins and fibers produce superior feathers- as it requires optimal nutrition to produce optimal plumage.
Zoos that use our Hunter Kibble claim that their birds fed on our diets end up looking like wild caught birds thanks to our custom formulation. Carotenids and a healthy dose of Vitamin E are largely responsible for the dramatic change in physical appearance of the birds.
.
One optimal foragecake should last a flock of a dozen about two weeks if you cut it into smaller pieces and put out every two days or so.
Cut back on whatever else you are feeding by 25% when feeding the supplement as the kibble embedded in the foragecake is a complete meal in itself.
There is cracked corn and wheat and other grains in the foragecake as well - white millet too- I realize there is an opinion that corn and wheat should never be fed to these birds but in my experience, they are fine provided that adequate amounts of digestible dietary fiber and animal protein, antioxidant rich fruit and ready access to clean grit are provided on a consistent basis.
These supplements put all the goodies we've just been discussing in a single product that convenient to use with no mess.
That was my big sales pitch. You can find Optimal Foragecakes online by google searching " Farmer's Helper Optimal Foragecakes" this will help you locate at some store near you- or order them online.